Local’s Guide to La Clusaz
We tried to get La Clusaz’s most famous resident, Candide Thovex, to write this Local’s Guide piece, but he was busy sending the Eiffel Tower or something. So, we asked lesser-known La Clusaz local and Fall Line’s new Web Editor, Jim Duncombe, to give us the rundown.
La Clusaz isn’t high on many UK skiers’ lists, but it should be. The resort sits in the middle of the Chaîne des Aravis, just west of Chamonix; it is the first range of big mountains you see when heading south from Geneva towards Mont Blanc. It regularly receives epic snowfall that can sit deep and long in its north-west-facing combes. The snow hangs around so long that La Clusaz has one of the longest seasons in the Alps, usually stretching from early December to the last week in April.
The resort is great for beginners, with small family areas and fun, gentle terrain that you can find at the top of the Beauregard and over in the Manigod ski area. There is little appeal for improving skiers; if you’re looking for wide, cruisy runs, you will be disappointed – even some of the blues can be a handful. But if you are looking for adventure and challenge, you will be rewarded. There are plenty of excellent pistes, sidecountry, backcountry, and touring to keep you happy.
The town sits an elevation of 1,100m, with the lift at the Col de Balme reaching up to 2,477m. The ski area is divided very distinctly; for those looking to test their level, the Étale and Balme sectors are the places to head (the latter is the location of the January SIGB industry ski test, where you’ll find the Fall Line test team hooning around on various models looking deliriously excited). At the east end of the trails, with a little bootpack or scenic skin, you can find an abundance of wild skiing.
It’s worth noting that La Clusaz has some serious freeride pedigree, with the resort turning out plenty of big names, including the two top finishers on the 2024 FWT, Astrid Cheylus and Manon Loschi.
Now, onto my favourite spots…
BEST RUN FOR A WARM-UP in la Clusaz
The closest we get to a cruising piste is the Torchère red that runs skier’s right of the drag of the same name. It starts gently and opens up with some nice rollers and is often the best-groomed resort run.
BEST PLACE FOR FRESH TRACKS
If it’s March and April, head to La Balme after a dump. The terrain is so much fun in powder, with huge rollers and gulleys to keep the pitch nice and varied without feeling tight or technical. The combe holds the snow, and there are always deep spots if it has been a windy night. So often I have had endless loops on the lift here in fresh powder, with hardly anyone about. A downside is that if it’s more early or mid-season, it can all be tracked in an hour. At these earlier points in the season, I head to Étale where there are trees, drops, traverses and plenty of space.
FOR A DAY AWAY FROM THE PISTES
Drive up to Lake Confins and start touring towards the Pointe Percée. A track runs all along the bottom of the Aravis chain, making each of the valleys accessible. One of the first is the Combe du Grand Crêt, which leads up to the spectacular Trou de la Mouche and a descent with multiple lines. The further you go along the Aravis, the quieter it gets.
THE BEST THING ABOUT LIVING IN LA CLUSAZ
While I don’t know everyone on this hill, I know that most of the skiers are seriously good, which has pushed me to really up my game.
DON’T LEAVE LA CLUSAZ WITHOUT…
Eating some Reblochon. The valley is the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) for the essential cheese needed to make tartiflette. Plus, it tastes fantastic. As the locals say, “In Tartiflette, we trust.” Oh sorry, you meant skiing… Then don’t leave La Clusaz without taking on the Vraille – never pisted, always an experience.
BEST PLACE FOR MOUNTAIN BITES
We aren’t blessed with funky mountain restaurants. It is all very traditional, and you are always close to the mountain food trilogy of melted cheese, pizza, or burger. The place that does it best is La Ferme, located under the Patinoire bubble.
FOR CHEAP EATS IN TOWN
I have done my best to avoid name-checking Candide Thovex in every answer, but his Concept Store (bar & Candide merch shop in one) has constantly surprised me with the quality, variety, and value of its menu, with the Poke Bowl being a firm fave.
FOR AN APRÈS-SKI TIPPLE
La Clusaz is not an après destination like so many other Alpine resorts. But if you must, then try Bali Bar, or even the Bowling Alley – it genuinely has the best evening vibes.
PISTES & PASSES
125km of runs
47 ski lifts
85 runs
8 black
30 red
31 blue
16 green
Day pass €53
